IFSC European Championships Moscow 2020 - Combined Finals

Opublikowany 28 lis 2020
Combined: the culminating round of the IFSC European Championships Moscow 2020, in which athletes will compete for the final two European spots at the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020.
For more information and results, visit: www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=1166
About the IFSC:
The IFSC is an international non-governmental non-profit organization whose main objectives are the direction, regulation, promotion, development and furtherance of climbing competitions around the world.
About the channel:
On the IFSC channel you can follow the three Sport Climbing disciplines of Speed, Lead, and Bouldering. Follow livestreams, athlete interviews, and event highlights.
Website: www.ifsc-climbing.org/
Facebook: sportclimbing
Twitter: IFSClimbing
PLthrow: plthrow.info
LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/company/inte...

Komentarze

  • Unwatchable with those stupid useless masks.

  • יובלללל שמלאאאא

  • That red hair lady is literally a spiderwoman.

  • that Russian guy is a monster

  • Hi from Margate in Kent England this is a wonderful entertaining sport there are no losers xx

  • Great commentary by matt. It’s hard to keep it interesting talking to yourself, but he managed to keep it sounding conversational and engaging without a co-commentator. Good job!

  • oui mais y avait presque personne, pas la France, pas l'Espagne, pas l'Autriche, pas l'Italie, bref, vraiment pas grand monde... FAUX championnat d'Europe

  • Speed climbing is a different sport and should have nothing to do with lead boulder. One is a pure power/fast twitch based event. The other is climbing.

  • How could Rubtsov get the 35+ on lead? He barely touched the bottom of grip 36. Nowhere near using it, or even reaching the usable side of it! Compare with Bosi who had is hand on the grip but slipped off.

  • when was this? Hearing that "one of them will be winning a ticket to the Olympics" .... the ones that had been cancelled? Or are they replacing people that had already won spots to the cancelled Olympics cause that seems fair?

  • Thanks Matt and your guest commentators - that was perfect

  • No need to point out which climbers are Speed climbers Matt, its painfully obvious xD

  • I miss Charlie 😢

  • Camera work - +++!)

  • I adore the camerawork of the IFSC.

  • I can't understand why so many of you liked Matt as a commentator. I had to mute it almost constantly (I started that after the speed competitions and gave every discipine a shot at being watched with the commentary) because I couldn't stand the commentary. Most of the time simply describing what happened on the screen (more like you would do it for blind people) or 500 time explaining the combined system. Also, Matt mentioned at least twice, I think, that this is such a long event so that you get the feeling that he can't wait for it to be over. Not much Backgroundinformation on the climbers... it really sucked. Sorry.

  • Lol, the combined format is definitely far more exciting than the pure disciplines.

  • slow mo munch of chocolate @6:04:08 LOL

  • Combined is so dumb..... speed, boulder, and lead for 1 medal..... it's like 100m sprint, hurdles, and a marathon for 1 medal

  • Crazy to think how much time will be wasted on speed climbing before it inevitably gets removed from world champ events

    • It's going nowhere, but it will be split off from the other two disciplines for the 2024 Olympics, which will certainly benefit all involved.

  • странно почему медведей на велосипедах не было)

    • never enough to win but enough to give it a go...

  • fun moments with Marcin 4:30:17 and 6:52:55)) these guys just cosplaying the Black Eyed Peas 7:21:00 ))

  • Especially when that said athlete only takes fifth.

  • Lol, the combined format is definitely far more exciting than the pure disciplines.

  • Especially when that said athlete only takes fifth.

  • the other day, i tried to do a pull-up... uurrrghhh... barely managed half a pull-up. lol

    • 2:35:25 I can't stop watching this, so intense

  • The combined system is a joke. But if we must have it, at least don't include speed. Really good climbers cannot qualify because of it.

  • Watching speed climbers bouldering is like watching a shot putter running 10.000 m. Brutal.

  • Amazing to see Aleksei smile so much alway knew he had it in him. Great event in Moscow, probally the most organized Championship event i have seen online (not including World Cup 😉, some of those look like amazing events also)

  • the commentator seems to lowkey put down their efforts seeing as he gives underhanded compliments and doubting if they'll make it, even though they make the next move right after and is silenced.

    • Qué onda?? El show de irse alegando que lo hagan pa callao adentro.

  • natural movement with her foot and clearly had no intention to make use of the bolt, nor got any use out of it. 5:43:31

    • she probably hought it was a hold or something, but you can tell there is some toe hooking there, she even looks down, realizes "oh shit thats an anchor", then releases it. but when she does she doesnt budge, so obviously wasnt using it to "cheat"

  • Love having Matt. he makes the commentary fun.

  • Gotta say, the number of times the camera guy zooms in on the foot for women's boulder 3... pretty sure we got it the first time.

  • Giggles adorably

    • Qué onda?? El show de irse alegando que lo hagan pa callao adentro.

  • One huge problem with the scoring system is that a good speed climber performing under normal conditions (no slip) can never ever get more than 64 points (1x8x8). That's never enough to win but enough to give it a go...

    • Rishat Khaibullin scored 40 and won the bronze medal in Hachioji 2019

  • The guarded united kingdom uncommonly encourage because gasoline peroperativly step till a wanting valley. psychedelic, stingy step-uncle

  • I finally had time to watch this glorious 7.5 hour beast of an event, totally worth it. First of all, what a wild ending for the men's! It sucks that Sascha won't get to compete in the Olympics, he definitely deserves to be there. I'm sure he will in the future though, the dude's only 22. On the other hand, nobody really deserves it more than Mr. Rubtsov. He's a veteran with a long and storied career, and I was worried he wouldn't be able to come back after his injury last year. The interviews were kind of hilarious, like you're taking these people who are in some of the most emotionally intense moments of their life, who are totally physically exhausted, and having them answer questions on camera in a foreign language. I do quite enjoy them, though. Anyways, it was an awesome event, loved it. Matt had some big shoes to fill, commentating these events has to be pretty tough, but Matt commentated this 7+ hour event extremely well. His unmatched psyche for climbing makes him a superb host. Plus he's (cheekily) a pretty good climber in his own right, and his beta knowledge is appreciated.

    • Is anyone gonna tell Matt Groom he laughed at Molly Thompson-Smith for holding her fist up in solidarity, presumably with BLM, in her introduction graphic before W2 boulder

  • what are the chances Russians knew boulder problems before everyone else? On M2 it is very clear that everyone used a different method than the Russians. Also some Russians even flashed it and knew that its best to kick left feet back on the dyno hold, even without looking as if they did this many times before

    • The route setting and judging team was international, so it's hard to see how that knowledge would be leaked only to the Russians just because the thing took place in Russia. There's just as much chance anyone else would get leaked the beta if anyone on the routesetting team is chums with an athlete.

    • They HAVE done it many times before, it’s their job. These are some of the best climbers in the world, and they are training specifically for movement like this. Obviously there’s no way to know for sure that they didn’t get an advantage, but it’s unlikely. And accusing athletes of cheating with zero proof completely takes away from all of the incredibly hard work they have put in to be as good as they are.

  • 2:35:25 I can't stop watching this, so intense

  • Can anyone explain to me why Stasha gjeo was crying if she ended up 2nd?

    • The big prize was an Olympic ticket for the winner of this championship

  • Ведущиму в зале надо завязывать с мегафоном, что на этапе кубка мира в мегафон орали, что тут, это не митинг.

  • what were the times for sasha and yuval? wierd they don't show up anywhere in the web...

    • ok saw it on the video now.. wow about 10sec.

  • That travesty that is speed "climbing" ruins those competitions.

  • Qué onda?? El show de irse alegando que lo hagan pa callao adentro.

  • Having to do this combined format to fit into the Olympics is just plain stupid. It's almost as if they would do a combined event for runners where they have to run 100m, 400m, 10.000m and a marathon with the results getting combined for one medal. This doesn't bring forth the best of the best but the best average, which sucks big time imo.

    • I agree. As several athletes have demonstrated, it's possible to be good (even great) at both lead and bouldering. Speed climbing just doesn't fit. It is, of course a perfectly valid sport in its own right, but it's a bit like making the best figure-skaters in the world also have to qualify in the 100m sprint. It's also rather heartbreaking watching the speed climbers throwing themselves gamely at blocs and routes they'll never be able to do.

    • @DrakeFire565 you're that dude that wonders why Usain Bolt isn't #1 in 100m sprint AND marathon running

    • @DrakeFire565 crazy that they haven't realised they should combine marathon and 100m sprint events to find the most well rounded athlete then

    • IFSC was only given one olympic gold medal to hand out (per sex), so they came up with this. and frankly it's very exciting to watch.

    • IOC only allowed one new sport for the upcoming Olympics and climbing was selected. IFSC decided to compromise and came up with a stupid combined format. Bouldering and Lead are very similar but speed is totally different. Yes, speed climbing involves grabbing and stepping on holds to make you go up but it's similar to putting sprinters in a mountain trail running race because it involves moving fast with their feet.

  • Mad respect to the whole event. And we get to see it all and for free. Thank you to everyone in the background all doing your thing to bring events like this to us. I really appreciate it. 👍👍

  • Auto Like and UnLike with Whitelist option for Instagram and also many more features. This app only costs $3.

    • 4:38:30 if you are not in love you will fell in love in the next couple of seconds

  • Qué onda?? El show de irse alegando que lo hagan pa callao adentro.

  • the last girl to climb and top had a moment of happyness then yousee the minute her soul got destroyed ;s

  • Hi ! I need some explanation please : Isn't Russia excluded from the next Olympics ?? And about the speed, why is it 1 vs 1 and not like usual speed races, all against each other. I find it very unfair that way..

    • Yes, Russia is banned from competing in "major competitions" like the Olympics but its athletes will be allowed to compete under a neutral banner (name TBC) if they can prove they aren't associated with the doping scandal.

  • Is anyone gonna tell Matt Groom he laughed at Molly Thompson-Smith for holding her fist up in solidarity, presumably with BLM, in her introduction graphic before W2 boulder?

    • Are people in the climbing world really so ignorant of the current global anti-racism movement that they don't immediately recognize what she was doing?

  • If it wasn't for that bolt penalty, Chloe would've been 3rd overall.. Gutted for her, she seemed so done with it all at the end.

    • @w0ttheh3ll could have been the Germans. It gave the German the bronze medal.

    • bumping Chloe down momentarily improved Stasa's standing, so we can guess whose team made the appeal. frankly, touching bolts shouldn't be penalised so hard.

  • 2:35:25 I can't stop watching this, so intense

  • The cup system in the speed part of final is really unfair when you think about it. The speed specialists risk knocking each other out early, and the best non-speed specialists risk getting knocked out early by the speed specialists. It makes no sense to have a cup system in one discipline, and then "an all vs all" in the two other. In racketlon (combined racket sport consisting of table tennis, badminton, squash and tennis), the scoring systems of all 4 racket sports are abandoned, and every sport is played to 21 points. That makes sense!

    • true, they should consider ranking the speed after the atheletes' best times

  • The "social distancing" in the crowd is comical.

  • climbing.

  • "Maybe you have to pull down your pants a little bit." - Jernej Kruder

  • I think this whole combined system should be thrown away. The fact that performance of athlete climbing the last decides outcome of first and second placement is just wrong. Especially when that said athlete only takes fifth.

    • @Maya W Well, may be we'll get used to this sudden shuffles in the future and it won't be so heartbreaking, but so far it feels terribly wrong. And as someone said in other comment - it opens possibility for plotting (is it correct word here?). Someone who is friend of Sacha and has almost no skin in the game (5th or 8th place, no one cares) could intentionally fall earlier to put him on first place.

    • That's just perception. If he had climbed before Sascha, then Sascha would have never been first at all. It's just coincidence - but it feels worse this time because of how heartbreaking it was for him.

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  • I just want to say that Matt did an excellent job of commentating. He has a good balance of "climber geek" appeal, along with doing some nice educating to bring newer folks up to speed, and a little personal/emotional realness. Really good stuff. I hope he sticks around for these competitions in the future.

    • He has potential but needs to find his stride and also hold his breath more when he finds nothing to comment on

    • Much much better than Charlie. I never enjoyed his commentary in all these past years to be honest

  • Виктория - победительница! Боролась до последнего. Молодчина. Достойная победа.

  • my god watching speed climbers try to boulder or lead is brutal. The olympics are going to suck

    • It’s still wild to me that it’s scored with equal weight to bouldering and lead in combined comps

    • Fortunately the Olympic format is not set in stone since in 2021(Tokyo) and 2024 (Paris) the sport is considered a 'candidate sport' to allow for changes. There already is some talk that in Paris speed will be separated out. I agree its utterly ridiculous that the best speed climbers basically will never get near an Olympic games because they suck at boulder and lead. Speed in my mind fits in more with the Extreme Games/Gladiator sport world.

    • they'll be training hard to not suck quite so badly at boulder and speed, though. the covid delay gives them more time to do so.

    • @Kard Nails Yes, a few got through. Maybe three or four.

    • Are any speed climbers going to the olympics anyway?

  • ничего не понятно, почему у Хлои было 30, а стало 21 в последней дисциплине и соответственно 5 место вместо 3 по итогу?

    • Она задела левой ногой шлямбур на уровне 21 зацепы, как бы сделав подхват носком. Не знаю насколько ей это помогло и помогло ли вообще, но увы правила🤷🏻‍♀️ (на 5:43:34 видно)

  • Denied 6:52:55

  • People like (6:42:17) this are the reason why we cannot have events with crowd in most countries at the moment. This is just extremely selfish behaviour.

    • Yeah if only everyone acted like robots instead of human beings

  • What a great week, I've missed watching these comps so much! Any number of the climbers would have been worthy winners, but congratulations to Alexey and Viktoria. It's a shame (for them) that they won't be allowed to represent their country at the Olympics.

  • Thanks for the live stream! Too bad combined format is such garbage. Congratulations to the competitors.

    • @Google User There's only one Olympic medal available for climbing. Without a combined format, it would have gone to speed and we'd have had no bouldering or lead. Would you rather have that? This constant moaning is as fruitless as it is tedious.

    • @Nzd seems like 99% of people don't agree with you, crazy to think about that

    • Get over it.

  • everyone has gotten so good at speed climbing. 4:09:20 myy god. His beta is sick. so sad he didnt top it. Those last few Men's lead red points....that's almost speed climbing. A bit upsetting that such an important olympic seat came down to time. oh man, poor Staja and Sasha. Congratz to Alexei. Never heard of the female winner though.

  • 2 announcers or 1 and a guess is always better imo.

  • Congrats to the routesetters, very interesting Routes and Boulder Problems (f*** Speed)

  • 2 announcers or 1 and a guess is always better imo.

  • Wow, very happy for Alexey but man so sad for sacha. Can't think of a more horrible way to miss the one spot. Pretty nasty of route setters to let this be decided on time. That's not climbing.

  • Dont they have to clean the lead route after Viktoria bleed on some holds? in Boulder u are not allowed to climb with bloody fingers and holds get cleaned

  • Can anyone explain to me how luzhetskii ranked 2nd in speed with almost the worst time? Look at 1:20:30

    • The times in the table are the times in the last run. He lost the final with almost the worst time but thus is in second place, he won all other rounds (being quicker as well). The time is not what divides the table, it's the individual head to heads (and yes, speed climbing rules are confusing, sometimes fastest time, sometimes just head to head counts)

  • Something is wrong, in principle, with this scoring system. Climber's A position relative to climber B should not depend on what other athletes do. I understand that it's simpler to use the position in each discipline to make the final leaderboard but it's absurd that Sascha could have been consider better than Aleksej had the last competitor slipped or something

    • @Karim Chahine oh, I get it now. you're right.

    • @w0ttheh3ll I don't see what you mean. If absolute points are given to athletes then the relative position of any two climbers wouldn't depend on the position of the other ones. This way the final score wouldn't depend on the ranking in each discipline. With absolute points I mean something like "topping 3 boulder with 4 attempts will give you X points" ecc..

    • @Karim Chahine This alternative you're proposing would still have the same characteristic that you're compaining about. If climber A is bumped down in one discipline by climber B the overall standing can still change for the benefit of climber C. it's hard to see how that could be avoided.

    • ​@Maya W Just when I thought I was the only freak out there thinking of the multiplicative system as a sum of logs, and thus an additive one with non-linear rankings... :)

    • You do need to remember that the moment would have *felt* a lot less heartbreaking if Yuval hadn't come last. It's only a coincidence that he climbed right after Sascha and a second faster or however much it was. Had Yuval climbed first, Sascha would have never been in the lead and seen it taken away like that. This way it felt a lot more unfair, somehow.

  • I must say that I already miss Charlie Boscoe. While Matt isn't bad, on his own he doesn't seem to have much to say. There are long pauses in the commentary, and most of what he did say was commenting the chat, greeting people, talking about breakfast, and other irrelevant topics. He gave almost no information on the climbers, and he didn't really comment on the performance of the athletes beyond what we could see for ourselves ("His foot slipped.").

    • Charlie was excellent, but I think Matt did really well for his first event. It has to be extremely difficult to solo-commentate a 7+ hour competition.

  • If you have the same score in bouldering they don't look at the time. You're both 1st. If you have the same score in lead it's suddenly a speed competition. This format is so unfair. Also the speed winner is most of the time so sad to watch the struggles in boulder and lead. If you start in the speed round against the speed specialist, the best you can do is the 5th place! Why not looking at the fastest time? Hurdurdurr xD

    • @Nzd oh that's much better!

    • @Nzd ok, I thought it’s only combined

    • @A W No, the 2024 Olympics will have two medals on offer for climbing. Speed will be on its own, and there'll be a combined format for Lead and Bouldering. This has been pretty much confirmed now.

    • Yeah, I imagine the racing aspect in the speed discipline is just because it's more 'spectacular'. Since the IOC only wanted speed climbing to be in the Olympics originally, I assume this was the only way to convince them. And I agree, speed on the lead wall shouldn't matter beyond climbing it within the six minutes. I would almost argue that benefits boulderers over 'classic' lead climbers, who climb slow but pace themselves and regain lots from resting.

    • Agreed but I think the reason for this is Olympia that only offers combined. So every climber tries to go to Olympia. Next Olympia will have 4 climbing disciplines : Lead, Speed, Bouldering and combined, I think and hope

  • Awesome!!! huge congrats to the winners and to Sascha Lehmann (great sportsmanship)

  • Amazing finals

  • Every time I watch one of these combined formats it just reminds me how useless speed climbing is as a sport/how terrible most speed climbers are at real climbing

    • I dont see speedrun of Mario as olympic discipline, why should speed climbing?

    • Yawn

  • 5:53:23 this is blood???

  • The camera crew is absolutely HORRIBLE for the woman's bouldering event! 03:10:18

    • I wondered why a tiny slippy foot hold was highlighted again and again, one shot is enough.

    • @Himbeersirup Nah, if Chloe's fall was available it would have been included in the final production. It was simply not captured by the camera crew. The guy's running the cameras did not coordinate at all as well as way too much ultra closeups of toes or fingers or jewelry. 02:29:25

    • It's not the camera crew. The actual filming if fine, and the camera crew provide great shots. I especially love the close ups and the view from the top of the route down. What is horrible is how the technical director / vision mixer - that is, the person who switches between the different video sources and "cuts" the final stream - jumps from one camera angle to another in a way that makes it impossible for viewers to make sense of the climbing.

  • The bolsheviks are at it again.

  • Suspect route setting yet again at least they kept it consistent all week. The most disappointing week of comp climbing in recent history. How many times can you undercook a route? Apparently quite a few times.

  • The "social distancing" in the crowd is comical.

    • As the idea about social distancing as well

    • Haven't you heard Alexey? "Moscow is almost save " ;-)

    • @Gundro A I'm talking about the joke of separating the crowd by one chair. That might offer a 10% reduction of COVID transfer over sitting directly next to someone.

    • If they are families or people that live together then there is no need to distance

  • Iwa Kakeru

    • Oh damn, you've watched that too? Nice👌

  • People keep saying that Rubtsov won with help of Yuval, but it's just a perception. If Yuval would have climbed ahead of Sasha than Sasha would have never been on top of the table.

    • The leadspeedclimbing is a joke and made time decide...

    • Additional point: They got adjacent places in speed and Rubtsov's expected win in bouldering: 1 vs 3 (or 1 top more) is slightly stronger than Sasha's expected win in lead: 2 vs 4 (or 1 move more).

  • 2:46:05 A wild Adam Driver in a disguise appears

  • In my opinion multiplying scores system isn´t fair. It benefits the athletes that get the first position in one discipline but aren´t that good in the two others. In order to find the most skilled climber in the combined format, they should sum up their score, not multiply it. Because that way, you really reward the most complete athlete. With the actual format, you reward athletes that are brilliant in one discipline and just average in the others. Again, just my opinion :)

    • I agree this system is bad, but summing just does not work either. Too many ties, and as indicated, someone who comes third in everything would still win from someone who comes first, first and eighth. That doesn't make sense from a viewer's perspective - if someone dominates two disciplines, you expect them to win. They need some sort of logarithmic system for it to be fair, but I guess the IOC would argue it's too difficult for the audience to understand.

    • @Juan _Cvll combined discipline is not fair at all, but product allows to see top specialists, as for me it is much better than competition for average climbers.

    • ​@Juan _Cvll Lol. Sum rule produces a lot of ties. Just for interest try to recalculate qualification round using sum. As result most of ranking will be done by additional parameters. And I bet that "sum fans" will be first who starts whining that it's unfair

    • @Maksim Zhelnin First of all, they are only 8 in the final. And, yes, for me that's fair. No matter how good you are in two disciplines if in the other one you are very bad. A combined champion has to be good in the three of them. With the multiplying way, you let athletes focus on their favourite discipline and "forget a bit" about the others. With the sums, you force every athlete to improve and work out their weaknesses

    • 1+1+10 = 4+4+4??? That's not fair

  • What an event! What a final. This had it all!

    • Are you serious? What about the leadspeedclimbing in the combined? A new discipline has been invented.... So sad...

  • the weird little "out of time" whistle in the bouldering round is so ridiculous

  • A delight hearing Matt Groom doing commentary!

    • agreed, he makes it enjoyable even for non-climbers

  • If anyone ever climbed an onsight knows that Segei Lutzhetski's lead climb doesn't look like one

  • Kruder saved the commenting for men boulders. Guess Matt is fine but only in cooperation with someone who has a clue.

    • @Matthew Beer if you're a beginner and don't understand much to begin with I could see that.

    • That's funny. I feel just the opposite.

  • IT WAS LEGENDARY

  • To hold international competitions in Russia in 2020 is similar to holding Olympics in Germany in 1939

    • @IT-O yes, believe or not, I'm comparing modern Russia to nazi Germany. Because these regimes are very similar. Just one little example: both in Nazi Germany and in Russia gays were persecuted by the state, tortured and executed. And no, I'm not saying sport is bad. I'm just saying it's the same thing as holding Olympics in Nazi Germany, that's all. Sport was "uniting and beautiful" back then, and it's still "uniting and beautiful". Yes, sport is uniting, peaceful, etc.,etc, all that crap. But all these beautiful things about sport were not helping jews in Nazi Germany. And they are not helping people who are being tortured or murdered in Russia. You can spray inspiring speaches about the beaty and uniting power of sport all day long, it's not gonna change a bit the way people are treated in Russia.

    • Comparing Russia to nazi Germany? Whats exactly type of commentary that divide people and set them against each other. Sport is about pretty much opposite.

    • @vitarlaeda it's not about liking or disliking the idea in this case. I'm totally ok that some people like stuff that I don't like. In this case it's morally wrong. Like I said before, it's similar to holding Olympics in Nazi Germany

    • @Albert Abuzarov So you don't like an idea of competitions. But there are people who enjoy comps a lot. I think it's great that those people compete when and where they decide to while you climb as you wish.

    • @AEG the fact that you are trying to insult me without knowing me says a lot about you. As for the beauty of the sport - mate, I've been climbing for a long time and I appreciate the beauty of the sport. But I don't see much beauty in flags, anthems, medals and other "we're better than you" attributes of professional international comps. National pride has nothing to do with the beauty, in my opinion.

  • Almost started crying for Stasa, have a lot of problems with the multiplied scoring (as the two last climbers would have changed the overall winners if they finished 1st in lead), but seeing how Viktoriia finished 4 placements ahead in lead, I don't think there's any fair counting system that wouldn't make her the winner of this comp. Still, very strange situation and personally I think adding scores would be preferable.

    • has anybody thought about.... adding squared scores? With scores being zero-based??? Honestly, you just can't measure combined score of such different disciplines. Also screw the olympics.

    • Any system based on the position in each discipline will be flawed because the overall position relative to some other climber will depend on the performance of all the other climbers

    • Adding doesn't work either though. Imagine, someone who would win boulder and lead but unluckily come eight in speed would still lose to someone who would come 3rd in all three disciplines (or 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 2nd, 2nd, 5th, etc). That doesn't seem any more fair. The multiplication makes coming first weigh slightly heavier, which seems kinda reasonable. But yeah, so upsetting for Sascha that he had the win in hand and loses it because the last climber tops two seconds faster than him...

  • Why was Caulier scored 21+ on the lead when she got 30+? With that she will be 4th instead of 7th on the lead final, and she will be bronze medal with a score of 40 over Adamovska's 64. Was there any penalty for Caulier?

    • @Maya W Rule is ok. But why the f... there are unused bolts on the wall?? Even on our local competitions in the middle of nowhere organizers doesn't allow themselves such crap

    • @R I mean, it was clearly unintentional and I don't think she even noticed until she looked down. It's a very tenuous rule. I hope they do something about it for the Olympics.

    • @Maya W Thank you! I watched back her whole performance and didn't notice that "toe hook".

    • supposedly touched a bolt and had her score downgraded to the hold she was touching while her foot was near the bolt. 5:43:31

  • The combined system is a joke. But if we must have it, at least don't include speed. Really good climbers cannot qualify because of it.

    • @SpinTheFlo yeah maybe the Olympics has has its day

    • @Maya W that's the problem. Not managing any boulder should be punished more but the scoring system doesn't allow iz

    • @Maya W thanks for that insight. It still remains a tragedy that such an old sport as sport climbing has to beg for being at the Olympics... Considering all the cringe sport disciplines that made it.

    • @Maya W Tomoa is one of the very few who can do it all. I guess because of his dynamic style. That's not smthg usual

    • @Balazs Villanyi Have you ever seen Tomoa Narasaki go? He has the potential to be top 3 in all disciplines. Combined is a fairly new discipline, as time progresses levels will even out more and some people will become 'combined specialists'. The one thing I find a bit embarrassing at the moment is the lonely speed climber who always ends up in a final and then can't get off the ground on any boulders and falls off at the second lead draw. It must suck for them - and it will be a bit difficult to explain to Olympics viewers how they ended up with an Olympic ticket...

  • Routesetter’s fault..